Just like many other countries over the years Israel has
vastly improved their wine industry. You can buy Israeli
wine at almost any price point, and in quite a variety of
styles. This review looks at an inexpensive Israeli wine
made from a relatively unknown grape that has become more
popular over the years, Petite Syrah.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review
are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Barkan, Classic Petite Syrah, 2005 12%
alcohol about $10
Let's start by quoting the back label. Petite Syrah was
introduced to Israel via California in the 1960s. It is
considered identical to the French variety, Durif. The
Winery's vineyards, located in central Israel, produce a
wine with deep ruby ruby color, an aroma of red plums and
currants, structured tannins in a full body, an elegant
finish and superb balance. And now for my reactions.
I first tried this Petite Syrah with a pot roast
accompanied by carrots, potatoes, and onions, all cooked
slowly in a cup of this wine. The wine was chewy and round
with a decent length. I tasted dark fruit with this mildly
acidic wine. When I added a jalapeno pepper condiment the
wine did not lose its strength. Petite means little but a
better name would be Moyenne, which means middle. I also
tasted chocolate. Not only the meat was meaty.
The next meal consisted of long, thin zucchinis stuffed
with rice, cinnamon, onions, and crushed almonds but no
meat. The wine was lightly fruity and moderately acidic. It
gave me the impression of dark fruits, in particular black
cherries. The second plate was a salad with sliced palm
hearts, chick peas, frozen peas, and black pepper. Let's be
frank. The salad overwhelmed the wine. No, the salad wasn't
doused in black pepper. I let the wine sit for a while
after the meal and got chocolate with the finishing sips.
My final food pairing involved chicken cooked in a soy
sauce, garlic, and dates. It was accompanied by sliced
potatoes cooked with the chicken and green beans in a
tomato sauce cooked on the side. The Petite Syrah tasted
acidic, unpleasantly acidic and was somewhat harsh and
thin, but I did get a taste of black cherry. Its acidity
softened in the presence of fruit juice candy.
I have an apology to make. In my rush to buy, taste, and
review two Beaujolais Nouveau 2008 offerings I forgot to
pair the Israeli wine with cheese. By the time I got to the
cheese the wine was off. I don't blame the wine for my
error (in over two years of wine reviewing I only did this
one other time.) But I have no intention of buying another
bottle to complete the tastings.
Final verdict. The Hebrew expression Kacha-Kacha can be
translated as So-So. I did a quick search and the only
other locally-available Petite Syrah in this price range is
one from Mexico. I may put it on my list, but honestly, it
won't be a priority.
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In his younger days Levi Reiss wrote or co-authored ten
computer and Internet books, but he prefers drinking fine
German or other wine with the right foods and the right
people. He teaches computer classes at an Ontario
French-language community college. Visit his global wine
website http://www.theworldwidewine.com with a weekly
column reviewing $10 wines and new sections writing about
(theory) and tasting (practice) organic and kosher wines.
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