If you are in the mood for fine French wine and food, you
really should consider the Loire Valley region of central
France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'll have
fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we
review a white Sancerre wine based on the Sauvignon Blanc
grape from the eastern part of the Loire Valley.
The Loire is longest river in France. Among eleven France's
wine-growing regions the Loire Valley number three in total
vineyard acreage. This region is subdivided into four
sections going from west to east: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur,
Touraine, and Central Vineyards, the home of the wine
that's reviewed below. This region's major white grape is
Sauvignon Blanc and major red grape is Pinot Noir.
Bourges is a town of over seventy thousand people that's
almost in the center of France. It's an old style market
town with a high and mighty Cathedral, the Thirteenth
Century Cathedrale St-Etienne that is definitely worth
seeing. It is a World Heritage Site. Make sure not to miss
the Fifteenth Century Palais Jacques-Coeur (Palace) that
was used as a model for several New York City Fifth Avenue
mansions. For natural beauty visit the marshes of the
Voiselle and Yevre rivers.
Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that
we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and
a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of
what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this
beautiful region. Start with Salade de Faisan (Pheasant
Salad). For your second course savor Noisette de Biche
(Deer Medallions). And as dessert indulge yourself with
Poire Rotie au Beurre (Pear Roasted in Butter).
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review
are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Marnier-LaPostolle Chateau de Sancerre 2003
12.5% alcohol about $19
Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting
Note: Straw yellow color; grapefruit and mineral notes on
the note; clean and refreshing citrus/grapefruit and herbal
flavors. Serving Suggestion: Shellfish; goat's cheese
dishes; veggie dishes. And now for my review.
My first meal consisted of poached salmon-colored trout in
red pepper (the vegetable, not the spice) sauce with boiled
rice. The wine tasted like a Chablis, full of lemon and
steel with some herbal notes. When I tried it with a salad
composed of Clementines, baby spinach, pear, and mango
accompanied by a sweet mustard dressing the Sancerre became
more acidic while retaining its flintiness. It took on
floral aspects when faced with home-made (my grapes,
someone else's) jelly.
The second meal was a purchased organic spinach pizza. The
wine was floral, round, and even a bit sweet. It was quite
pleasant. With an apple-rhubarb tart the Sancerre was
nicely acidic and feathery.
The third pairing involved a lightly sauteed chicken
breast, boiled rice, and a spicy tomato-based Turkish
salad. It was round, light, and quite long. Then I added a
Tunisian hot pepper sauce (harissa) to the bland meat.
Interestingly enough the Sancerre became fruitier and
somewhat shorter.
Usually I finish the bottle with two cheese. In this case I
went to a cheese-less lasagna made with whole wheat
noodles, tomato sauce, peas, and ground chicken. The wine
was very fruity and quite round. Its refreshing acidity
really cut the grease.
One of the classic wine and cheese pairings taught in
schools and verified in practice is Sancerre and goat's
milk cheese, preferably Crottin de Chavignol coming from
the same area as the wine.
Final verdict. This is a fine wine. I really like Sancerre
but find it somewhat overpriced. I am always ready to try
another Sancerre, looking for better value.
----------------------------------------------------
Levi Reiss is the author or co-author of ten computer and
Internet books, but really would rather just drink fine
German or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He
teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language
community college. Check out his global wine website is
http://www.theworldwidewine.com with a weekly column
reviewing $10 wines and new sections writing about (theory)
and tasting (practice) organic and kosher wines.
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