Given the terrible Artic temperatures in our part of the
world, I figured why not review a well-known rose wine from
the Rhone Valley region of southeastern France. This area
is second in acreage of France's eleven wine-growing
regions. The region runs some 200 kilometers (125) miles
along the Rhone River. The northern part is really narrow.
Its major white variety is Viognier and major red grape
variety is Syrah. This area produces some of the best red
wines in all France, and if you ask partisans some of the
world's best red wines. But the north produces only about
5% of the total Rhone Valley production. Wine in the
southern Rhone Valley tends to be blended. For example, the
wine reviewed below comes from three different grapes.
Tavel is a village of about 1500 people located near some
great vineyards, not far from the cities of Avignon and
Nimes, and an hour's drive from the Mediterranean. But you
don't have to leave the village for interesting sights.
Sights in the old town center include a Tenth Century
Chapel (Saint-Ferreol), the village church and fountain,
and the Chemin de la Condamine. There's a vineyard route
and you're not far from the largest sundial in Europe. Just
a bit of wine trivia; Tavel is the one French wine
appellation that's allowed to make only rose wine.
Before reviewing the Cotes du Rhone rose wine and imported
cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local
wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few
suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when
touring this beautiful region. Start with Soupe aux Truffes
Noires (Black Truffle Soup). For your second course savor
Foie de Veau a la Lyonnaise (Veal Liver and Onions). And as
dessert indulge yourself with Tarte aux Pralines (Praline
Tart).
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review
are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Perrin & Fils Tavel Rose 2006 14% about $16.50
Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. Tavel
produces some of the richest, yet driest roses on the
market. They work beautifully as a sipper and are quite
adaptable to a variety of foods such as grilled chicken,
sea-food salads, bouillabaisse or pork tenderloin. The
Perrin 2006 vintage is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10%
Mourvedre, and 10% Cinsault. And now for our review.
My first meal was centered on a middle-eastern dish known
as kube, slow cooked ground meat placed in crushed bulgar
jackets. This is rose. It was a great blend of acidity with
a touch of sweetness. The wine lingered. It sort of bounced
off the peppery sauce. When sipped on its own the Tavel was
feathery. I felt it was something of an introduction to
ambrosia.
My next meal involved a slow-cooked chicken leg with the
skin on with a sauce made from soy sauce, garlic, cumin,
and onion. The chicken was accompanied by potato patties.
The wine was fruity with good acidity. It was light and yet
oh so present. Dessert was a French chocolate pie with a
great flaky (lots of butter) crust. The rose managed to
hold its own against the somewhat excessive sugar.
The final meal was an omelet perked up by anchovies and
capers. The wine was long and fruity, undisturbed by the
excessive salt. It became subtler when facing a fresh,
acidic tomato.
The first cheese was an Emmenthaler (Swiss). The wine
remained round and forceful, but something was lost. The
second cheese was a rather gamy goat's milk cheese from
Poitou in central-western France. The cheese cut the wine.
Final verdict. Tavel is known as a fine rose wine. I was
not the least bit disappointed. I'll be pleased to buy it
again. But if I'm not doing a review, I won't bother trying
it with any old available cheese.
----------------------------------------------------
In his younger days Levi Reiss wrote or co-authored ten
computer and Internet books, but he prefers drinking fine
German or other wine with the right foods and the right
people. He teaches computer classes at an Ontario
French-language community college. Check out his global
wine website http://www.theworldwidewine.com with a weekly
column reviewing $10 wines and new sections writing about
(theory) and tasting (practice) organic and kosher wines.
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